So: starting off this rabid spree of catch-up blogging, let me finally
tell you about Nürnberg! This is old news, really – I went to the Christmas
Festival in Nürnberg on the first of December. Great way to kick off the
holiday season!
The Christmas Market in Nürnberg is one of the biggest, oldest, and
certainly most well-known Christmas market in Germany. To those unfamiliar with
the concept, a Christmas market (or village, or fair, or festival, or half a
dozen other terms, depending on where you are in Germany, Austria, etc.) is
sort of similar to a cross between a farmers’ market and a state fair – only
everything is Christmassy. (Actually, my southern Missouri friends, think
Silver Dollar City during Christmas, only everything is outdoors and there’s
alcohol.) There are usually a few small rides (like a seven-seater carousel or
a camel – I really do mean small) for the kids, and then a ton of booths and
stalls filled with every imaginable sort of Christmas gift. Baked goods,
candles, marzipan, old-fashioned toys, ornaments, hand-knitted scarves, hats,
and gloves – if you’re looking for it, someone is probably selling it, handmade
and with surprisingly reasonable prices, on the whole.
I couldn’t let Christmas pass by without seeing the famous “Christkindlemarkt”, so I hopped on a bus at an ungodly and dark hour of the morning on
December first and rode the three hours south-east to Nürnberg.
The bus was surprisingly comfortable, actually – once it actually got
there. I started off the day nearly an hour late (for reasons never explained
by our grouchy driver) but once we were finally underway, I enjoyed the ride.
Honestly, the traveling part is always my favorite of any trip. The destination
is all well and good, but I just really love
driving. Or flying, or riding in a train, as the case may be. I listened to a
Batman radio drama on the way (it ended literally as we pulled into the bus stop in Nürnberg) and when we finally
arrived I was ready to explore.
It was super cold, even with
all my layers (2 pairs of pants, turtleneck, t-shirt, sweater, hoodie and coat) but I managed to forget about
that for most of the day. There was so much to see! In fact, I took so many
pictures that the rest of this entry is simply going to be photos, with captions
explaining what they are and their significance.
1. This is the “Christkind”
(say: krihst-kint), the symbol/host/mascot of the Nürnberg Christmas festival.
Portrayed as a golden-haired angel in a white gown, she’s the star of the show
and can be found all over – painted on ornaments, mugs, soaring over the
streets, and even holding court in front of the church. The tradition goes back
to Martin Luther, who was trying to avoid the Catholic veneration of saints and
who told his children that the Christ Child had brought them their gifts on
Christmas Eve. The Nürnberg Christkind morphed into a female figure by getting
meshed up with the Angel of Annunciation from German Christmas plays, where
angels are generally portrayed as female.
2. The Pegnitz River (I think)
and it’s evil, rabid seagulls.
3. How often do you see Santa
whiling away the days until Christmas by entertaining people at the Nürnberg
Christmas festival with his mad accordion skills? With an elf-dog, no less!
4. The Frauenkirche
("Church of Our Lady") which stands on the eastern side of the main
market square. I ducked in here long enough to sing some German carols with a
local church that had come in, and then escaped as the priest began the
ceremony of Mass for the three old ladies who had actually come for the
service.
5. Here follows a few pictures
of some of the prettier stands – I mean, they were all cool, but some were more
eye-catching than others. This first was a stand of miniatures – something very
popular at Christmas Markets. I think it’s an out-branching from the crèches
people build at Christmas. I just wanted to buy everything in the shop!
6. More of the miniatures.
7. This entire stand was
white-and-glass ornaments. It looked like Old Man Winter had set up shop
selling icicles.
8. Fantastic lamps, hand
crafted from cut sheets of plastic.
9-10. The antique nativity scene –
or crèche, as they’re called here – outside the cathedral. The sign says:
“Please refrain from throwing coins or other objects at the Nativity Scene. If
struck, the antique figures might be seriously damaged! Beginning in 1935, on
the initiative of Paul Seegy, then Building Director of the City of Nuremberg,
this Nativity Scene was crafted by Bertl Kuch and Max Renner, two Nuremberg
artists. 36 figures carved from Pinewood tell the story of the birth of Christ
in a timeless and naïve way. The shepherds’ clothes are based on local
traditional dress, adding a special Franconian touch to the scene. The design
of Mary, Joseph and the shepherds reflects lade mediaeval Christmas
representations, reminding us of Nuremberg’s heyday as a Free City of the
Empire (Freie Reichsstadt) in the 15th and 16th century.”
11. Coming up on the south (I
think?) side of the Nürnberg castle – that is, the Berg that the town is named
for. :) I didn’t get to go inside (didn’t want to spend the money on a ticket –
I’m a total Scrooge) but I explored the grounds and such.
12. This is the main courtyard
of the castle, just outside the oldest still-standing buildings. (Castles, like
non-for-profit hospitals, were constantly being added on to, rebuilt, and
reimagined by each successive generation of owners.) This was, at once point,
the women’s tower (behind me) and in this courtyard the canonized Empress
Kunigunde planted a lime tree. It’s had to be replaced over the years, of
course, but the tree in the center is still a lime tree.
13. This courtyard was special
because if you had committed a crime, you could find sanctuary here for three
days. No one could touch you in that time, giving you the opportunity to get
evidence defending you, or at least to put your affairs in order. Unfortunately,
no one would necessarily bring you food or water during those three days. The
tour guide told us that there was a story about a knight who escaped by riding
his horse and leaping from the courtyard to the roofs of the houses outside the
castle walls – an amazing story when you consider that the roofs indicated are
at least 150 feet away and about 20 feet lower down. But hey – who knows. :D
14. These are the aforementioned
roofs. :D This also happens to be a view out over the city of Nürnberg. The
Frauenkirche is (I believe) not the nearest set of steeples, but the larger
ones in the distance.
15. Hey look! It’s my face!
16. Murder holes! This is a
tunnel leading under the walls to the north (?) gates of the castle. I was
ridiculously pleased to see the enormous murder holes (through which things
like boiling oil and hot rocks could be dumped on the heads of invading
armies). I have a weird sense of what’s cool, ok?
17. The north (?) side of the
castle, looking up the cliffs to the at-one-time-menacing berg crouching atop
the mountain.
18. Albrecht Dürer was a Nürnberg native, and
so there is a statue to him here as well as… (next picture please)
19. …his house, which is now a
museum. I considered going in, but my Scrooge-ishness and the massive group of
Italian tourists who went into the tiny building just as I got there
discouraged that idea.
20. I took refuge from the cold
in one of the smaller churches, St. Sebald’s. It was a bit run down inside, and
you could see where ongoing restoration work was being done. Apparently, this
building was nearly demolished when Allied forces bombed Nürnberg, and it’s
still not entirely repaired. There were placards set up in various places
showing right-after-the-bombs pictures and including sections from a poem
called “St. Sebald – a monument for peace” in several languages. This one line
just really struck me: “Peace – what is peace? / That we can go through the
ruins / without fear of bombs?” I’m sure it’s better in the original German,
but even in English the wording grabbed my attention. I won’t go all English
Major on this, but if anyone is interested I Had Thoughts. :D
21. A fallen angel. *bursts out
laughing* Ok, ok, sorry – I couldn’t help it. This was a crèche inside the
Frauenkirche, and somehow the Angel of Annunciation had been knocked over. I
just laughed quietly to myself and took a picture before the curator could come
and fix it.
22. My first (and last) Glühwein. It
was hot, which was good, and I got to keep the little frosted mug (set me back
about six Euro, but ok…) but the wine itself -- *shudders.* Blarg. Glühwein is
a mild, low-alcohol mulled wine, very fruity and a traditional Christmas market
treat. I got the raspberry sort and quickly decided that I would like wine very
much – if I couldn’t taste the alcohol. LOL. But it was hot going down and
warmed my hands, and it was An Experience, so that’s all well and good. :D
Farewell, Nürnberg Christmas
Market!
Love the pics. Love the commentary as always. Questions about how you could get to some of the product in that one stall, but... Looks like you had a grand time!
ReplyDelete~Dad
Really enjoyed the update. So happy you are getting to do all this traveling. Thanks for the pictures and descriptions. Love you.
ReplyDeleteGranma
So pretty. Definitely worth waiting for.
ReplyDeleteThank you for taking us with you on your adventures!!
ReplyDeleteMrs. Kroese